THE Beruas Museum stands silently in a shabby building near the police station. Opened in 1995, the faded paint on its cement signage today is a pathetic sight in this drab town in Perak.
However, it is a repository of the country’s rich history and is one of the few reminders of the former capital of the great ancient kingdom of Gangga Negara (literally meaning a city on the Ganges in Sanskrit).
On display are Chinese ceramics from the Qing Dynasty, old tin money in the shape of animals, incense containers from the ancient days of Hinduism, 19th Century plates from England, bamboo prawn traps, a rusty 128kg cannon, earthen water jars and other artefacts.
Mind you, these are not replicas but genuine pieces unearthed from the banks of the Sungai Beruas nearby. Information plaques give quite a rich account of the history of this former kingdom. During its Golden Age, the present districts of Bidor, Tanjung Rambutan, Ipoh and Sungei Siput were under its control.
Named After A Tree
According to the Malay Annals, Gangga Negara was founded in the 8th Century by Raja Ganji Sarjuna from Kedah but oral folklore has it that the founder was a Khmer prince from Cambodia.
In 1025 and 1026, Raja Chola Rajendran of Coromandel in south India attacked Gangga Negara, leading to its collapse.
However, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, a new kingdom was later established in the 15th Century when a prince from Sumatra, named Malik al-Mansur, landed in the area after sailing upriver along the Sungai Beruas.
His followers told him he was resting under a beruas tree, so he named his new kingdom after the tree. A species of wild mangosteen, the beruas tree can still be seen in the nearby villages of Pengkal Baru and Batang Kubu.
The kingdom of Beruas grew through trade and paid tribute to Sultan Mahmud Shah of Malacca. Unfortunately, in the 17th Century, Sungai Beruas became heavily silted and the kingdom lost its importance as a trading port. Slowly, it declined into oblivion as its population moved away.
British archaeologist Colonel James Low was the first to explore the area 169 years ago in 1840, followed by H.G. Quaritch-Wales a century later who discovered Chinese porcelain shards and other broken artefacts.
Another historic site is Kompleks Sejarah at Kampung Kota, just three kilometres from the one-street town. Lying almost in shambles inside a rubber smallholding are two ancient tombs of the first and second kings of the Kingdom of Beruas. They were called Raja Beruas.
However, it’s a shame there are no information plaques to enlighten visitors on the historical significance of these relics. You can’t miss the site as there is a signboard on the main road leading to it.
Sadly, everything there is in a dilapidated state. The fence surrounding the tomb area has long been damaged. Goats roam within the compound and litter the place. It’s a truly pathetic sight considering that the kings were once revered in their glory days and remained an important part of history. History should be preserved well as it is a nation’s soul.
In the village, rubber tappers still work in the ways of their forefathers – pressing rubber sheets with hand machines and drying them under the sun. They seem to live in a time warp far removed from the bustling world outside.
Sights Along The Way
What else is there to see in this former ancient kingdom? A little known tourist spot is Hutan Lipur Ulu Licin Beruas. To get there, just travel along Jalan Kampung Kilang for five kilometres.
A wide expanse of verdant towering trees envelope you on both sides and a clear stream strewn with boulders on its lower reaches conjure up a serene scenic setting.
Picnickers enjoy the cool fresh air and children frolic in the gurgling stream. Benches and camp sites are available.
On the way to the forest recreational reserve, a uniquely-shaped Chinese temple will catch you by surprise. Dedicated to the Choy San Yeah (God of Prosperity), it sports a unique multi-layered green roof reminiscent of a piece of Japanese origami.
What makes a trip to Beruas more worth the while are the several sights along the way from Ipoh. However, driving there from the capital of Perak is not easy as there are no initial signs to direct you.
From Ipoh, you need to travel past Menglembu, Bukit Merah, Lahat, Pusing and onward to Papan, a one-road town made famous in Sybil Kathigesu’s book titled No Dram of Mercy. For the uninitiated, the writer was tortured by the Japanese Kempetai for treating injured members of the Malayan People’s Anti-Japanese Army.
An interesting diversion in this dead town is the Taman Herba Papan with plots of herbal plants like tongkat ali, kacip fatimah, misai kucing and various herbs and spices.
Proceed out of Papan to reach Pusing. At the first traffic light, turn right. After passing the Jabatan Pertanian, turn right to head to Gelung Pepuyu. At the T-junction several kilometres onward, turn right again – only then you will see the name “Beruas” on a milestone.
Awesome Mosques
Expecting a boring drive ahead? Not at all. A few exciting surprises lie further on. Just be patient and cruise along. When you see the Universiti Teknologi Petronas signboard, look to your right and you’ll see a massive white mosque of futuristic design. My personal moniker for this Islamic masterpiece is “Mosque Of A Hundred Domes” as it boasts of seemingly countless small domes that add awe to the bell-shaped main dome. The latter’s simplistic yet powerful design is reinforced by three concentric rings at its base.
For a closer view, you can enter the university’s campus grounds after registration at the guardhouse. Park your car and view the mosque from the other side. Lo and behold! Part of the mosque stands on stilts on a moat, with water tumbling into a pond. The sight is absolutely breathtaking.
After the break, continue your journey to Seri Iskandar, a new township that’s the administrative centre for Central Perak. After passing the township’s massive archway on the left and the Sekolah Agama (religious school) on your right, keep an eye on the right.
Again, behold a massive red-domed mosque standing on brown silts that seems to emerge out of the rural landscape. A golden spire from the main dome elegantly stabs the sky.
Divided into segments by white strips, the main dome sits atop a rectangular base, with each side adorned by a half-dome – this is the Masjid Daerah Perak Tengah Seri Iskandar. The three-level minaret is capped by a golden cupola. The walls of this eye-catching structure exude a soothing aura with its beige and white hues and are adorned with fretwork panels.
Onward to village of Titi Gantung, about five kilometres ahead. Keep your eyes peeled on the right for the village mosque. Another surprise. It is unique as it features two silver tulip-shaped domes.
Terrapin Tale
A final diversion before reaching Beruas is the Terrapin Breeding Centre in Bota Kanan. Several ponds contain terrapins of various sizes and a small information centre showcases the life-cycle of these amphibians.
A plaque tells of how, when an early Sultan of Perak visited Aceh, he was served a dish of terrapin eggs. He took a basket of eggs back to Perak where they hatched and the hatchlings released into Sungai Perak.
My verdict after the trip to Beruas? Well, it may not hold much in terms of tourist attractions but the drive there is an adventure in itself and can be especially appealing to history buffs.
Sources :NST Online
